“I have never coasted down a hill of frozen rain.”
“Just take your time – wave comes. Let the other guys go, catch another one.”
“Every day of the year where the water is 76, day and night, and the waves roll high, I take my sled, without runners, and coast down the face of the big waves that roll in at Waikiki.”
“I have never seen snow and do not know what winter means.”
“Out of the water, I am nothing.”
“Don’t talk – keep it in your heart.”
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